Festival of Joan of Arc - Fêtes Johanniques - Reims 2014

Over the last weekend of May, the Fêtes Johanniques took place, as they do each year, not just in Reims, the Cité des Sacres, but also in Orléans and Rouen.

In Reims, the successful coronation of Charles VII in 1429, instigated by the Maid of Orléan - Joan of Arc, is commemorated by the annual festival which culminates in the procession of the king and his spiritual counselor.

Around the historic town centre street artists play music, dance and entertain the crowds with displays of acrobacy and theatrical performances.

Of course this festivity is largely centred around the cathedral and the old squares and for the space of a weekend their atmosphere is completely changed, yet in a manner that seems most fitting.

The oldest buildings of the town seem to come alive as crusaders, nobility, peasants, musicians, Middle Age freaks and performers all rub shoulders in the street processions...

Simply looking regal and very Medieval...

Loitering on street corners, chatting together.

 Declaring sentiments...

Or just being plain weird...

Mesmerising when you catch them full-on...

When they're performing...

 

Or at rest...

Just as they slip out of view...

Shrouded figures wandering off into the distance...

Drifting away, down the streets...

Gowns flowing...

Heading towards the Palais du Tau...

Or static, obscured by clothing and mystery...

Or lost in thought...

Whilst others are simply there - radiant!

Meanwhile, whatever the activity, the music seemed to resound everywhere...

Performed by the young and old(er!) alike...

The rumble and clatter of chariots and carts advancing on the cobbles could be heard as people went about their business...

Or took part in more silent processions, which went from the bucolic...

...To the demonic, with these nightmarish gargoyle figures...

...That seemed to wilt and wither a little under the glaring sun...

Others worked in earnest...

Watching over the campsite with a beady eye and evil-looking cod-piece!...

Casting out menacing looks...

With undefinable expressions...

In turn scary, or wary...

However, as far as I'm concerned, the scarier the better!

And although I've seen these looming forms several times before, the magic hasn't faded...

And they always have a weird effect on everyone else who comes across them...

However, for me the stars of the show will always be the animals... They are just effortlessly beautiful.

They were a little more modest this year, no yaks, camels or wolves or even the habitual green monkey that usually performs, most appropriately, on Place Royale.

 Nevertheless, that seemed to bring out the skill, intelligence and simple gentilesse of the animals that were present.

This one seemed to defy anyone to make any assumptions of him as a mere sheep...

Other animals were just waiting to serve...

Be they feathered or furry...

And finally we were led to the high point of the festival, the symbolic appearance of Joan of Arc and Charles VII and their blessing at the cathedral... Roll on next year!

Fêtes Johanniques Reims 2013... Living gargolyes on the rampage and much more...

A grotestque group in front of Reims cathedral - 2013

The month of June arrived last weekend, and so did the sun. Incredible! Well, as always here in Reims, the month of June hosts the festival to celebrate the life of Joan of Arc, although there are several other fêtes johanniques in France at this time of year - notably in Orléans and Rouen. Reims is symbolic because it was here that the 'Virgin of Orléans' led Charles VII to be crowned in 1429.

Many favourite gargoyle!

I spoke about all of this last year, Joan of Arc Festival 2012 , but even as the years pass I never get bored of the fête.

Diabolical figures on stilts.

This year was a little different to the others since there was a marked absence of animals, yet a veritable invasion in subhuman beasts!

A certain unsuspecting person (!!!) being followed...

 Many of these were stalking about the Medieval encampments around the cathedral on stilts and were really impressive, towering over the passers-by.












So the camels, yaks and other exotic creatures gave way to a hoard of extras from a Lord of the Rings set...

Along the cathedral - all livened up with folk music and weird animations.

 However, many of the habitual stands, displays and shows were there - as were the Medieval 'huts' that were placed around the historic centre of the city - Place Royale, Place du Forum, le Parvis de la Cathédrale.

Early evening - Place du Forum

I really like the atmosphere which reminds me a little of Footsbarn Theatre, that used to come to Cornwall in the summer when we were children. Funnily enough, the new Footsbarn troup came to Reims three years ago and I actually got to speak to one of the original founding actors. I hope my children will remember this fête in a fond way later on.

Musicians behind the cathedral.

  I really like the wild music and dancing, which makes a change from the usual starchy ultra-conservative atmosphere here, though you don't get much audience participation.

 Well, you can't have everything, I suppose...

Stilted minotaur - Place Royale

 Anyway, the crowds were certainly out, on both the Saturday and the Sunday.

Place Royale

I loved looking at all the costumed characters, because with or without a face mask, most of the wearers seem transformed and transported us spectators to another time.

 There were a lot of strange individuals...

Birdman selling whistles.

No one just seemed ordinary or commonplace...

From henchman to magician, everyone seemed unique...

 
Some seemed to be waiting for some form of divine intervention...

A knight Templar

Were busy in contemplation...

Or creativity...

Devoted to their duties...

Or combat.....

 Or simply relaxing afterwards...

Pause between a fight...

 Huddled around, in jovial spirits...

Or in family groups...

Medieval family

But there were naturally a few lone wolves...

A werewolf sitting on the fountain at the end of my street!

 Of course, my favourite stars of the show were the animals...

These aren't strictly speaking greyhounds, but are of the breed 'galgo espagnol'. Whatever their actual race, they were so gentle and affectionate.

 And what elegance! These were accompanied by the majestic birds of prey.

And everything was accompanied by the music...

 As the sun finally went down, the crowds seemed to grow, concentrating around Place du Forum, which suited me fine as it's just around the corner from my flat!

Processions of performers set off towards the cathedral...

 Threading their way across Place Royale...

 In front of the cathedral were the flag-brandishing troup Castiglion de Fiorentino who managed to perform despite gale-force gusts of wind!

Finally, Joan of Arc appeared on her stead, in preparation for the grand parade to the cathedral on the Sunday.

 Finally the evening ended with a light-and-sound display on the cathedral façade, which I had intended to film, but never got around to working out the video function on the camera.
So, roll on next year!

Lighting on the cathedral façade.