On display at the Penlee House Gallery and Museum are many of the works of the Newlyn School artists from the late 19th century, depicting life in the coastal communities set alongside the Cornish countryside. Despite being at a remove of well over a hundred years, the local scenes represented in these incredible paintings are still recognizable today, creating a strange feeling of familiarity and continuity. Parallel to that sense of continuum is the comforting feeling from the rediscovery these ‘old acquaintances’ – the works themselves – paintings that have always occupied a discreet yet significant place in my mind, coming up to the forefront every so often, like a treasured strain of music.

And yet for all the pleasure I derive from the Newlyn School paintings, these paintings truly deliver it as it was, with no or minimal mawkishness or excessive preoccupation with the maudlin, even if the material could have easily lent itself to such an approach. The plein-air technique largely employed by the Newlyn artists enabled them to capture the mood of the people and place in a unique way, reproducing the special play of light that is still specific to Cornwall today. It was this strange luminosity that initially drew many of these artists to the South-west, with the desire to capture on canvas the light and shadows that in turn illuminated the hardships and fleeting joys of the existence in the fishing communities in this particular setting.

In a fishing community such as that of Newlyn, daily life was marked and measured by the tides; albeit rhythmic they were nevertheless as precarious and unpredictable as the weather itself. The catches were dependent on the elements, at the mercy of the waves and skies, and as for the men bringing back their load, sometimes prayer alone could deliver them from the perils of the sea. Given the frequently treacherous conditions, boat losses were common and not all the fishing crew members returned safely to harbour.
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By the end of the 19th century, Newlyn had established itself as one of the key fishing ports in the southernmost part of England. Boats sailed out to catch pilchards, mackerel and herring, setting off from Newlyn harbour, across Mount’s Bay and beyond Mousehole, with the women folk taking care of the home and children prior to their return. Once the catch had been landed, the fishwives assumed their vital role in the fishing industry, deftly gutting, cleaning and preparing the fish for sale or helping to cure it for export.
Depending on the weather, the ‘lugger’ boats went out daily -sometimes overnight or longer - with the exception of Sunday which was respected as the day of rest for the faithful Methodist community. This observation of Sunday worship indirectly led to the Newlyn Riots in 1896, when fleets from outside Cornwall came to fish off the Cornish peninsula for economic gain that could only be detrimental to the already vulnerable local community.
Looking at the Newlyn School paintings, the strain and challenges of the fisherman’s life are etched on the unassuming, worn faces of the local people at work, some of whom appear in different works yet always illustrating the same themes. However, it is the female figures that always draw my attention, with their striking silhouetted forms that seem almost an emblematic as the lugger sailing vessels, set against the skyline.

Dressed in dark, coarse clothing, typically long skirts, layered petticoats and aprons, the women must have found these cumbersome and heavy to wear, especially once wet and buffeted by wind and rain. They also had little but practical shawls, headscarves and mop caps to protect them from the harsh, pitiless elements that were surely equally challenging in winter and summer. The footwear was equally stout and functional, giving them support as they carried heavy baskets of fish loads on the slippery quays to sell to local buyers, or as they transported basket cauls of fish strapped to their heads as they made their way up from the beaches once the luggers had landed the catch.
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| Ssh... Fishwives from Brittany! |
Home life would barely have been a respite from the harshness of the working activities outdoors. Indeed, the living conditions in such households must have been dire – not least for the overpowering, rank smell of fish – from the catches, clothes and fishing nets. With no real sanitation to speak of, no domestic washing facilities – or simply the most rudimentary equivalent - and obviously no central heating or electricity of any kind, day-to-day existence must have been hugely challenging on every possible level. Add to that the damp that would have been rife in these homes, the overcrowding and general insalubrious nature of the sites, and it was hardly surprising that many of the Newlyn dwelling places were labelled as slums, deemed unfit.
Once the golden age of the Newlyn fishing industry was largely over, decades later in the 1930s, plans were drawn up to demolish these old buildings with the Newlyn Clearances project. This move nevertheless underestimated the attachment felt for the old community setting and soon led to protest from fishermen, local residents and artists alike, all seeking to block the demolition. Interestingly - but not all that surprising – many of the women were slightly more open to change and were not wholly set against the new housing proposed ‘up the hill’ in Gwavas. This would surely have been due to their hands-on experience of running a household in run-down conditions. The menfolk, meanwhile, apparently put up more resistance to the idea, perhaps more attached to the tightly-knit community they were accustomed to on land and sea, in spite of those same conditions.