Beach-Combing Magpie
Far from the beach, but still surrounded by treasure of all kinds just ready to be found, looked at, gloated over, gleaned and swiped or simply created! Here are my latest finds....
Wednesday, December 25, 2024
Peace and Beauty... Assumption of the Virgin
Wondering why I just cannot 'feel' the Christmas mood anymore, be it in France or England, nor experience any desire to spend time trudging around shops, I wandered around the Victoria and Albert Museum for hours instead! Although I failed to recover the festive spirit in any sense whatsover, I did have a wonderful visit, especially on returning to the stunning Cast Courts. This time, the calm and beauty of one of the vast copies on display caught my attention; a section of a Baldacchino (tabernacle) representing the Virgin and angels, in a sculpted depiction of the Assumption. Almost 700 years old, the original work completed in 1359, is set in the Orsanmichele Church in Florence, commissioned just after the passing of the Black Death. The tabernacle structure served to frame a painting of the Madonna (by Bernardo Daddi), but I think it wholeheartedly stole the show! The details of the cast of the carved marble, with intricate features further highlighted by what was originally inlaid gold, glass, and lapis lazuli, creates a uniquely delicate effect that perhaps reflect the influence of the artist's background as son of a goldsmith. The sculptor responsible for its creation was Andrea di Cione - known as l'Orcagna - (c. 1308–c. 1368), and although he was known for his work as painter, poet and, of course, sculptor, his name is perhaps largly overlooked today...
In fact, the Assumption is just one of two scenes represented on the large sculpted relief of the tabernacle for in the lower section of the work is the Dormition of Mary, with her demise. In the upper section, as shown here, we see the Virgin as she levitates within the oval form that is symbolic of sacred figures - the mandorla (Italian for 'almond') -
which is grasped by the angels that bear her to heaven. I love the angels' expressions and postures as they busily accompany Mary in her spiritual ascent, their forms floating on the clouds that shroud their angelic feet! Well, after over 4 hours in the museum, my own feet were feeling decidedly unangelic but I felt so elated to see such incredible works that lift you no matter how you initially feel....
Sunday, December 22, 2024
Stark Winter in Hyde Park...
My first stop on arrival in England is invariably Hyde Park, and this time was no different. The bare, skeletal trees with their dark, spindly branches suited my mood and the whole nature of the trip...
The skies were steely grey, reflected in the cold water of the silent fountain...
Everything seemed quiet and pensive, forcing reflection on thoughts that offered little warmth or comfort. However, after a while, Life seemed to take the upper hand and the little wonders of nature, however small and discreet, refused to be overlooked.
Tiny, modest buds and delicate blossom were there to be seen, for eyes ready to look onward, and the wild bird song was to be heard, for ears willing to listen...
Already bursting forward were early clusters of snowdrops, in defiance of bleakness, whilst the monument to the departed seemed less a memorial to royal demise than a celebration of this wonderful legacy left to us today, almost 300 years on; Hyde Park.
Lovely Lichen... In Mount's Bay.
Even on the greyest of Winter mornings, there is always something to catch the eye when meandering along the coastline path that borders Mount's Bay, leading away from Penzance towards Marazion.
Typically, the waves were crashing along the vast stretches of pebble shore with the clattering swash and dragging backwash on the shingle. The wind blustered, sending the seagulls on perilous flight, but closer afoot were the granite bolders, with their striking smatterings of lichen!
Some of these were incredibly vivid in colour, with their bright golden aureoles 'flowing' and bursting across the stony surfaces, as ink drop diffusions, spreading out repeatedly, in a multitude of different shapes and shades.
Others, meanwhile, were more subtle with delicate lacy clusters embroidered on rust-coloured stone or scaling over the weather-worn wooden fencing with feathery outshoots...
With this strange organic shroud, every surface becomes strangely ageless, or rather seems to acquire a patina of age and wisdom, witnesses of the passage of time and Life itself.
Friday, November 29, 2024
A Long-Winded Project....
Sometimes you consider something finished, but finally you come to the conclusion that there is still a considerable amount to do before you get there! Such is the case with this crochet piece I thought to be completed about two years ago, but when passing in front of it every day, that feeling of dissatisfaction has gnawed away at me...
So when I saw all those vibrant balls of wool on sale, I couldn't resist.... and I wasn't the only one!
Forgotten Memorials...
One of the main traffic roundabouts in Reims isolates a grassy central island on which is set a monument that is rather hard to see in any great detail, due to the steady flow of vehicles that winds around it, largely indifferent to the sculpted forms it bears or the inscriptions in the rush to get some destination or other. It is in fact virtually impossible to know what the impressive column monument commemorates and for this reason, it tends to be overlooked.
It did however attract attention at the turn of the millenium when a hurricane bore down on the city, destroying the trees that encircled it, as well as wreaking havoc on the architecture of the city as a whole. Today it is difficult to believe that the large trees we see now are 'only' a quarter of a century old, planted in 2000 to replace those uprooted in the days after Christmas in 1999. The monument itself escaped the event seemingly intact, miraculously, albeit strangely exposed, without the trees' branches and leaves to shroud it.
The monument in question - dedicated to the allied nurses of the world - was set in place 100 years ago, almost to the day, on the 11th November 1924. Indeed, whilst each village, town and city in France possesses a commemorative edifice to honour its sacrificed soldiers and civilians, there are but three monuments erected to the memory of the nurses who died caring for others. It was Juliette Lambert who decided to lead a committee to gather funds to assure the building of a monument « à la gloire des infirmières françaises et alliées victimes de leur dévouement » for the nurses who fell in the World War I. Reims was selected as the obvious site for this purpose as the 'ville martyre' had suffered horrendously during the hostilites, from the very outset in September 1914 until the end of the war, with its cathedral being the very emblem of French loss and sacrifice.
On the day of the monument's inauguration several years after the war, Juliette Lambert was present, but her speech was read out for her as she was already 88 years old by this stage. The sculpted relief on the monument shows two nurses giving care with great tenderness to an injured soldier from the Front, whilst on the other side of the cylindrical column stands an angel strewing roses, in a gesture representing renewal. The top of the column is decorated with a sculpted laurel leaf frise with a funerary urn decorated with pine cones - symbols of eternity - while the octagonal base bears the sculpted forms of scallop shells to symbolise hands opened out to other people, emblematic of the gesture of doctors and nurses towards their patients.
The architect Charles Girault, famous for his construction of Le Grand and Le Petit Palais in Paris and the sculptor Denys Puech were responsible for this work. The inscriptions along the column pay tribute to the devotion of the nurses;
"On land and sea they shared the dangers of the soldier. They braved in hospitals, bombed and torpedoed the fire of the enemy contagion, exhaustion.By consoling pain, they helped victory. Honour to them.
They will live forever in the memory of their homelands proud and grateful."
When I finally managed to dodge the traffic to make my way onto the island and look at the monument in detail, I noticed the commemorative plaque just below the symbolic Red Cross relief. This had been added following the Second World War (1939-1945), in reference to tragic losses due to bombing on the 30th May 1944. Although I was aware that Reims had suffered from Nazi occupation, deportations to the death camps and shellfire, I had not heard of any major bombing campaigns. Intrigued, I tried to find out the circumstances and fatal consequences of this incident and what I did discover surprised and shocked me in equal measure.
In order to rid the city of its Nazi occupants and above all cut enemy access and supplies, the American Airforce (USAF) sent over Flying Fortresses to strategically bomb specific sites, namely the Maistre barracks (previously Caserne Neufchâtel), the railroad marshalling yards, locomotive workshops and the central train station itself. Three bombing waves were carried out in May 1944. However, it was the third of these, on 30th May, that resulted in significant civilian losses.
As the first bombs went off, the nurses and young students (14-19 years old) of the Centre de formation Professionnelle in Rue Belin went to offer their help as the area around the station and railway had been hit in the air raid. Most of the streets, literally minutes from my home, were affected but it was Place Luton where the greatest tragedy took place. In order to protect themselves, the group took shelter in a house cellar but as bomb ripped through the building, exploding in the cellar vault, the blast and the thick, asphyxiating dust that followed killed 20 out of the 21 youngsters. Nurses from a nearby dispensary also died, as did ordinary civilians, thus taking the number of fatalities to 55, with far more injured aside. On visiting Rue Belin and Place Luton, I expected to see some mention of this tragedy but there is - apparently - absolutely no trace although a plaque is to be found in a local secondary school Lycée Gustave Eiffel. I actually find that quite sad that a quiet city square should have been the site of such brutal devastation and yet today there is nothing to mark this or indeed to check the actual facts since all is rather vague. As there are plans to revitalise Place Luton and make it greener and leafier, I sincerely hope the local council will take steps to honour these long-departed individuals of whom the city is supposed to be forever 'proud and grateful'. I did try to locate the fateful site on Place Luton, and since the very plain house below was the only relatively 'recent' building in the square - the rest dating to the 19th century or the reconstruction of Reims after WWI - I can only assume this was it...
It was, of course, in Reims that the surrender of the Third Reich was agreed upon and signed, on the 7th May 1945, as General Eisenhower, the supreme commander of the Allied Expeditionary Force in Europe, had previously transfered its headquarters from Versailles to Reims. This may be long-distant history today, but how can we know where we are, or what we have now if the traces of the past are wiped away or overlooked?
Monday, November 11, 2024
Traces of... Juliette Lambert.
It always strikes me as strange and somehow magical when you follow a random track and it leads you into areas that you had never been aware of. These odd, intricate threads seem to be spun in a wholly haphazard fashion and yet as you get caught up in their mesh, you realise that these are all interlinked and open onto more familiar, clearer ground. So was the case when I visited the rural église St Julien and learnt of the history of the former château that was once closely associated with this singular country church. Whilst learning of the history of the château, sadly destroyed at the end of the First World War in 1918, I found mention of one of its previous owners, a certain lawyer named Alexis La Messine (1823-1866), but more interestingly, the woman to whom he had once been married; Juliette Lambert (1836-1936). As the couple’s marital arrangement seemed rather strange – the wife preferring not to accompany her husband on visits to his family château – I decided to look into their history. Monsieur appears to have been a rather unpleasant fellow, albeit no more so than the norm in a time when the fair sex (women) generally led lives dictated by decidedly unfair conditions. Madame, meanwhile, was a character whose life was shaped by anything but what was deemed ‘normal’.
How disappointing that the name Juliette Lambert (whose nom de plume was Juliette Lamber and later Juliette Adam) is little known today… Far from being some retiring provincial spouse as countless others, here was a unique woman of notable literary and political prowess in her own right, even on a par with George Sand (1804 – 1876). Yet whilst Sand’s name is synonymous with the fight for equality and considerable literary contributions, Juliette Lamber’s has somewhat fallen into oblivion. This is perhaps all the more ironic since the two women did get to know and frequent each other, despite the notable difference in age. It was indeed in Juliette’s first major written piece in 1858 Idées anti-proudhoniennes sur l’amour, la femme et le mariage, that she took the defense of Sand (and fellow writer, Marie d’Agoult) against the misogynistic diatribes of Pierre-Joseph Proudhon. Later, Juliette’s salon, a socio-cultural hub, would contribute to contemporary movements in literature and politics, drawing in many of the most influential and famous figures of the period such as Flaubert and Victor Hugo and of course, George Sand herself. Likewise, Juliette’s founding and direction of La Nouvelle Revue Française in 1879 enabled her to encourage young writers whilst reflecting her republican, feminist vision of society too. She herself turned to a literary career from that time, with the novel Laide (1878) being dedicated to no other than… George Sand. I am not sure what either woman would say about the political climate today or what has been achieved since their lives for the feminist cause and as I am neither equipped nor willing to ponder on either here, I would rather dwell on a more personal aspect of Juliette’s life – her formative years – which were surely just as captivating as Sand’s.
Whilst we all come into this world supposedly alone, some beings are destined to lead an existence already ‘crowded out’ by family, their paths set out for them long before birth by the latter’s aspirations, hopes and expectations. From the earliest age, much of Juliette’s life was governed by the largely dysfunctional relationship between her maternal grandmother and two parents, an odd triangle in which she occupied a central position. She was constantly pulled and pushed in opposing directions by individuals ensnared in their own separate obsessive behaviours driven by their specific worldview that they wished to share with her. Most of the members of the family were rather eccentric and - to use today’s parlance – were probably’ on the spectrum’. The figure of the grandmother is the keystone in Juliette’s story and intriguing in its own right.
Firstly, Juliette’s great grandmother chose to marry her cousin but died when giving birth to a daughter, Pélagie (Juliette’s future grandmother), at the age of 16. The infant was subsequently raised by her grandmother, whilst her father remarried and gave Pélagie three half-sisters. It was soon apparent that reading would be the mainstay of her life, to fire her love of adventure and thirst for “written or enacted romance” that rejected anything enforced or preordained. Above all, novels seemed to feed her aspirations, for herself and especially her descendants, and a good match in marriage was to her, the means to realise her dreams. However, much of the drama she underwent must have been at the origin of her paradoxical desire for housebound existence in later life, cloistered in home and gardens with her precious books. Whilst she would only venture from home to attend Mass at church, she dreamt of leaving for Paris, but these dreams were never to be realised. Having chosen her own husband, a doctor called Pierre Seron, Pélagie suffered from his obsessive wanderings as he left on various army missions and otherwise entertained Don Juan tendencies. Pélagie was often left alone, literally holding the fort and the baby throughout the early years of married life. During the invasion of their hometown, Chauny, in Picardie, in the early 1800s, Pélagie had to flee from the advancing troops of Prussians, which led to the death of her twin baby daughters. She managed to survive and so did her marriage, despite her husband’s ongoing philandering that was accompanied by constant marital spats. Another child was born, Olympe, but unfortunately her great beauty was not matched by a pleasant nature. “Impossible to find a more fascinating creature to look at or one of less good humour”. Olympe had no desire to read books and it seemed that Pélagie’s dearest wish to see her beautiful daughter married off would be dashed too. However, the encounter with an earnest young man – the future doctor Jean-Louis Lambert – finally resulted in wedlock and a son was born to the young couple. Already proving to be a challenging wife due to her “habitual sourness” and her motiveless recriminations, Olympe appears to have been devoid of any maternal instinct. As a chilling testament to this, the child died at 18 months of age as a result of a ‘violent scolding’ adminstered by this brutal mother. The husband, given to excessive behaviour, allowed himself to be led astray by a charlatan so that by the time Juliette was born, the household was in poverty. At this point, Pélagie stepped in to bring up her granddaughter in her home at Chauny, far from her parents, but not free from the family dramas which punctuated her young life.
If Pélagie occupied a central position in Juliette’s life, this was equaled by that of Juliette’s father. Both adults held very different views and stances on virtually everything, except in their devoring love for this child. After a few years, Juliette’s father wanted to reclaim his daughter and bring her back to his home in Blérancourt in order to educate her in his manner, inculcating her with his Republican opinions and steering her away from religion. This was a polar opposite to the upbringing she had received at her grandmother’s, and so started a strange competition to win Juliette over as she oscillated between the two camps – and two forms of idealism. Despite the opposing positions in this tug of war, Juliette loved her adoring father and grandmother to equal measure, and both exerted a huge influence on her worldview during her formative years and beyond. Predictably, perhaps, neither adult would accept the values of the other, considering these as detrimental to Juliette and both failed to acknowledge the dilemma the situation caused for the young girl. Furthermore, Juliette’s father was given to violent outbursts of anger to the point that Pélagie referred to him as a “dangerous madman”. Following an accident in which he almost blinded Juliette, he intended to kill her and himself afterwards rather than have a disfigured daughter. That Juliette escaped from the episode alive, was down to her ability to reason calmly with her father and this conciliatory trait was one that she developed throughout her life thereafter. Her mother, needless to say, was a persistently embittered presence, ready to bring her daughter down to earth with a cutting remark on her intellect and appearance - “as stupid as ugly”. Juliette was however a highly intelligent child, precocious for her years, and well versed in literature, Greek and of course actively involved in politics to the point that she was expelled from school for exposing the socialist Republican views her father had encouraged in her. Her inquiring mind and vivid intellect were down to both her father and grandmother’s efforts to inculcate her with what they held dearest. Their interests and beliefs would invariably cover opposing areas yet these somehow grew in harmony in Juliette although the virtual indifference to what she herself may have felt or wanted is mind-boggling! Whilst her father admitted to her that his “greatest ambition is to make your mind the offspring of my own”, her grandmother, Pélagie, wished to see her married, with a fine dowry, and living in Paris and thus become “a woman unlike everyone else”.
Appearing older than her years, even as a young teenager, Juliette attracted attention and when La Messine, a lawyer for the Court of Appeal in Paris of Southern Italian origin, asked for her hand in marriage, Pélagie was delighted – “ My dream is realized!”. Striking an agreement with La Messine, Pélagie arranged that she would spend each winter with the married couple in Paris, in exchange for the sizeable dowry she had been building up over the years. Olympe was likewise content to see her daughter set to be married off so that she would be free of a rival and thus no longer obliged to vie for her husband’s attention. Juliette, meanwhile, was less sure of a marriage to a man considerably older and with far more cynical views than herself, even if she had initially found the conversational ‘jousting’ between them entertaining. Pélagie assured her granddaughter that this mature suitor resembled one of the intriguing characters from her Balzac novels, and therefore with such a romantic figure, nothing could surely go wrong. Her father, meanwhile, was resolutely against the marriage to this “unworthy man”, and rightly so… Unfortunately, the couple were indeed wed and shortly afterwards Juliette fell pregnant. Going back on his gentleman’s word, La Messine refused to allow Pélagie to stay with them, whilst brazenly confirming his father-in-law’s fears; he and Juliette agreed on nothing and the household was not a happy one. Heartbroken, Pélagie left the couple and in despair starved herself to death, finally appearing to Juliette as a ghostly apparition just before passing away. This loss had a profound, lasting effect on Juliette, not only inciting her to leave her unhappy marriage and to fight for herself and her daughter but also to recover the religious faith she had previously dismissed. Her father encouraged her to leave her spouse and to strive forward “Work, work and become known”, and indeed she followed his advice. Publishing her first successful piece in 1858, in her mere 20s, Idées anti-proudhoniennes sur l'amour, la femme et le marriage, she nevertheless wrote as Juliette La Messine. The success of the work was such that her estranged husband sought to claim his share of the profit garnered but this spurred her on to spouse the feminist cause even further and to fight for her political views. Once widowed in 1867, Juliette went on to marry the senator, Edmond Adam. Her Parisian salon was matched in success by the soirées that she later organized in the setting of her grand property L’Abbaye Notre-Dame du Val de Gif where the great political and literary figures of the Third Republic would meet. In later life, she carried out charity work and was invited by Georges Clemenceau to the signing of the peace treaty of Versailles in 1918. Juliette finally died in 1936, at the grand age of 100 at the end of an incredible life. It saddens me to think that such an inspirational individual is overlooked, at a time when we need to see figures that act and achieve in spite of challenges – focusing on accomplishment rather than dwelling excessively on the injustices that may hamper this.
Tuesday, October 29, 2024
A Winter Jewel... Purple Hellebores.
The fleeting flurry of snowflakes such as we experienced last week probably does not represent the arrival of Winter, but perhaps the beautiful display of 'seasonal' blooms at the garden centre heralds it in a more fitting manner, and none better than the hybrid Hellebore, with its wide range of forms and shades of colour.
Although the Christmas Rose variety - Black Hellebore (Helleborus niger) - typically has white flowers with golden/green stamens and pistils (the black reference indicates its dark roots), the other types offer jewel-like colours, set amongst dark or even vibrant green leaves.
The flower heads elegantly droop down, discretely hiding their delicate understated beauty, and making it rather challenging to take a photograph without contorting yourself!
What are assumed to be five petals are in fact sepals or 'petaloid sepals', part of the calyx or outer protective whorl, akin to modified leaves. True petals, meanwhile, are part of the corolla.
Within these 'petals', the colours are not uniform but vary, with different shades feathering out from the slightly darker vein-like structures or likewise, the petal form may have picotee edges, tinged with darker colours. The effect is mesmerizing, all the more so when set against the contrasting colours of the tubular-shaped nectaries.
Flowers that are ready to seed take on another form, with their elongated pod-forms reminiscent of a strange Triffid head! It is difficult to imagine that the Hellebore is part of the humble buttercup (Ranunculaceae) family.
Just seeing these beautiful plants fills me with an almost silly sense of happiness, and buffers me up against the apprehension I feel with regard to the onslaught of high-tech.
I can't help but believe that the further we go from Nature - for all its beautiful cruelty - the more we lose our humanity, and so with that in mind, the sight of these gem-like plants that I did not even need to buy in order to appreciate and marvel over, acts as a magical balm.
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