Monday, August 21, 2023

Open Door to the Past...

As I was walking along my street, I peered into the doorway of one of the impressive late 19th century buildings that has long been carved up into student lets. Just by chance, the door had been left open, offering a glimpse of an unexpected fragment of the past. Given the style of architecture, this must be one of the very few edifices to have survived the assault on the city in the Great War of 1914-1918.
Although still beautiful, albeit with facade tarnished with urban grime and graffiti, the whole has naturally lost some of its former grandeur over the decades. I was taken aback to see just how elegant the hallway was, with the figure newel post at the end of the staircase, the decorative wood panelling and the tiled floor.
I wonder who lived here when the property was its prime. In what manner was it divided up when first built? Were there separate appartments on each floor or was this a vast family town house? Not sure how to arrive at any answers, but I do wish that I had the ability to write a book about the (imagined) past lives of this building and those who inhabited it before it was all given over to today's transcient tenancy which cloaks everything with anonymity and a certain indifference.

Cemetery in Heavenly Sun...

Climbing up a series of steep steps from the centre of St Etienne towards the perpendicular, aptly named Rue de L'Eternité, I finally arrived at Cimetière du Crêt-de-Roc. Whilst in my mind cemeteries are usually synonymous with rather shrouded, secluded areas of town, surrounded by trees and generally secured by imposing walls, this site was somewhat different.
Firstly, the sunlight was radiant, throwing bright beams across the greenery and in between the monuments and headstones in a magical way, blazing on the stonework. Meanwhile, the searing midday heat grew in intensity as I meandered along the pathways without any particular direction, just intent on discovering the beauty of what is known locally as Le Père-Lachaise stéphanois.
What is immediately striking here is this dramatic geographical position; high above the hustle and bustle of the city below, yet surrounded too by mountains in the distance, creating an impression of exposure yet protection.
Row upon row of tombstones of varied size and stature crisscross the flanks of the hill side, and I loved wandering around the oldest of these...
The grounds were enlarged several times following the consecration and inauguration of the site in 1819 and indeed some of the older plots are squeezed together...
Looking at the detailed sculpture and inscribed names led me, as always, to wonder who these individuals were, what kind of life they lived. Many of the traditional symbolic features were included; shrouded urns...
Winged hourglasses, representing passing time and hence our mortality, clasped hands for reunion in eternity, upturned torches for life extinguished...
Naturally, angels towered over their charges...
Whilst mourning figures in their austere, draped clothing covered their grief-stricken faces...
Ivy cloaked itself across the monumental stonework, its bright green setting off the blazing blue skies above...
Even the deteriorated monuments seemed all the more mysterious...
And with their own grandeur and grace...
And even a certain elegance...
Some a little sad in their decline...
Others majestic...
And finally, a tantalizing glipse of the deceased in photographic image, their likenesses caught forever on stone, a 'modern' addition that reflects how this was indeed a mid-19th century cemetery.
Throughout a large part of my visit, I was honoured by the presence of a private guide who weaved himself between the graves, guardian of the peace and tranquility of the cemetery in heavenly sunlight!

Wednesday, August 16, 2023

Blazing Blue and Purple.... Larkspur.

The labels Larkspur and Delphinium are used interchangeably to describe the beautiful tall flowers that belong to the butterfly (Ranunculaceae) family.
The resemblance of the flower buds to a lark's claw or spur obviously gave rise to the former name back in Tudor times - and it is the same in French 'Pied d'alouette'.
Meanwhile for others, the flower buds brought to mind the shape of a dolphin - hence the Greek delphínion - Delphinium - and again the French equivalent; Dauphinelle. Whichever association made, and whatever name is used, the colours of the flowers are just magical whether they are soft pink, mauve or blue. No wonder this flower is a symbol of positivity and was used to ward off evil !

Friday, July 28, 2023

The Branwell family to the Brontës... from Penzance to Haworth

Unlike the granite-faced buildings that surround it, the Branwell home stands out, a little austere and rather enigmatic with its distinctive redbrick facade and imposing door. Such brickwork was indeed a sign of means and status in late 18th century Penzance, with these 'Rotterdam' bricks having been procured from the Dutch by local privateers.
Situated towards the end of Chapel Street, with a view over Penzance quay and Mount's Bay, and later to be overshadowed by St Mary's church built in 1835, the house would have witnessed great day-to-day activity and perhaps a number or illicit or illegal affairs such as smuggling. The house, however, reveals few secrets itself. It does not offer the same quaint charm or meet any of our modern-day notions of cosiness as the other houses here do, but that makes it all the more intriguing.
Set a little higher on the pavement, with steps leading up to the front door, it is impossible to peer inside, try as I might. Yet the plaque on the facade opened a door to a world of ideas and imagination from the moment I read Wuthering Heights as a young teenager. For here was the home of the Branwell family, notably Maria and Elizabeth who were to be mother and aunt respectively of Charlotte, Anne, Emily and Branwell Brontë. From this house would spring the future monumental works of English literature, in northern regions far away from south-west. What would have happened if Maria and her future husband, Patrick Brontë,had settled in Penzance and their children had taken to roaming its magnificent landscape and breathtaking coast instead of exploring the dramatic Yorkshire moorland around Haworth?
One thing is almost certain, without the nurturing administrations of Elizabeth - 'Aunt Branwell' - the publication of the literary works of the Brontë sisters would have been severely thwarted or perhaps never have taken place at all. Alongside the care and love she provided throughout their childhood years and beyond as 'second mother' to the orphaned children, Elizabeth Branwell offered financial support at a key moment, when none was to be found elsewhere.
In fact, much of the information concerning 'Aunt Branwell' comes from the book above that I found in Penzance this summer, and which enabled me to track down the other homes and sites linked to the Cornish relatives of the Brontës around the town. Although I was, of course, fully acquainted with many of these places as part and parcel of Penzance such as I have always known it, the notion that this was the case for the Branwells too is quite strange.
As popular pubs, my teenage memories of The Union Hotel, The Turk's Head Inn and The Admiral Benbow in Chapel Street surely differ greatly to those of Elizabeth Branwell, who would never have frequented such places in that capacity! However, their pasts are linked to historic moments such as the announcement of Nelson's death in 1805 for The Union and The Turk's and then a wild and racy role in smuggling in the case of The Benbow. The latter is even said to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson in his writing of Treasure Island...
Born in 1776, Elizabeth grew up in certain comfort within a relatively prosperous merchant family that owned property. In the century prior to her birth, the fortune of Penzance had grown as had its population, largely due to its status as coinage town from the 1660s, thus playing a vital role in the copper and tin industry. Fishing and farming continued to flourish but it was the Industrial Revolution that would fuel the town's ascension. Sir Humphry Davy, Penzance chemist and inventor of the miners' safety lamp was born in the same period as Elizabeth and his experiments opened the way for the advances in chemistry and physics that would transform science. He attended the grammar school in the town, and I went to Humphry Davy Grammar School some two centuries later!
Socially aware of the lack of education and thus the means for moral and social betterment, Thomas Branwell, father to Elizabeth, set up a school room at the back of the family home in Chapel Street as a philanthropic act. Referred to as The Penny School due to its cheap rate, it offered local children education, alongside the Branwell children, several of whom would later teach there. Unfortunately the school was destroyed by a bomb in WW2...
Despite economic growth, no family was safe from hardship or loss and the Branwells were no exception, with the majority of their twelve children failing to survive their infant years. Thus the parish church of St Maddern in Madron was witness to a succession of christenings and subsequent deaths. Yet Jane, Elizabeth and Maria Branwell, born in 1773, 1776 and 1783 respectively, would go on to change literature indirectly by their fates, whilst the eldest daughter, Jane, would be the only Branwell offspring to perpetuate the family name.
Despite attending the church at Madron, the Branwells turned towards the Methodist Movement for prayer and not only were they involved in the establishment of the Wesleyan Methodist chapel in Chapel Street, but it was the family's Methodist faith that was instrumental in bringing Maria and Patrick Brontë together in Yorkshire. Incidently, the Girls Grammar School used to hold Speech Day at the chapel each year until the 1980s...
Following the marriage of Maria to Patrick in 1812, Elizabeth visited the couple in happy times that would prove to be relatively short-lived. Having borne six children between 1814 and 1820, Maria fell ill after the birth of the last child in 1820, Anne, and died of suspected uterine infection. And so it was that Elizabeth's stay at Haworth extended indefinitely so that she never returned to Penzance again. And yet her vital role in the development of her charges, with her far-reaching, albeit discreet influence, ensured that she lived on through the writings of her nieces with references to events, deeds and thoughts that found their source in 'Aunt Branwell'.
As for the elder sister of Elizabeth and Maria - Jane Branwell - following a failed marriage to a disgraced Methodist missionary, reverend John Kingston, she was obliged to flee to Penzance, living in Morrab Place with one of their children. Her husband remained in America with the other offspring who would prove to be the last remaining strains of the Branwell family.

Thursday, July 27, 2023

Cast Creatures - Medieval Footrests at the V & A...

Recently wandering around the marvelous 19th century Cast Courts at the V & A, I saw more examples of footrests on sculpted Medieval tomb monuments, from the original pieces copied around Europe.
The gisant figures of the departed lie fully clothed in all their worldly or spiritual finery, with apparel that reflects their rank, religion, wealth and worth.
On the voluminous folds of their clothing rest both hands, joined in prayer on the chest or clutching some spiritual, social, chivalric artifact, or simply crossed on the body.
These notable beings appear to sleep peacefully and in great dignity. Noble husbands and wives repose next to each other yet apart; religious individuals lie alone, clasping a holy script or ecclesiastical object. Knights proudly grasp their sword and shield, their bodies twisted as if ready to spring to action.
Some figures are shown lying on crib-like structures that are richly decorated with sculpted draped cloth, and several are represented in the bright colours that were wildly employed on the stonework of churches and cathedrals alike.
With the exception of a few figures, the majority of the departed are accompanied by a beast, symbolic of their standing; be it a lion, bear, dragon, dog, or unicorn.
Rare are the individuals who have no creature crouched or nestled at their feet or nothing on which to rest their often impressive footwear.
It is more customary to see one or two creatures that look up to their masters with devotion and obedience either from a high-relief sculpted plaque or a 3-dimensional sculptured piece.
The lion, symbol of power and pride, frequently appears next to venerable male figures although not always gazing at the gisant or postioned at foot level.
The king of the beasts is not exclusively reserved for men-folk as women too could be accompanied by the regal lion although in that case the ferocity appears somewhat toned down to the point of docility!
Likewise the dog – representing loyalty – could be shown lovingly guarding over his mistress...
... Or fiercely watching over his master...
In the case of a married couple, both lion and dog would be appear together.
Sometimes the interaction between the beasts is one of domination but at other moments is rather comic...
... Or quite strange...
And finally you have some departed who simply refuse to lie down and sleep, with or without an accompanying animal!